Numbered 1, this Romain Gauthier Prestige HM* is part of the first series released by the brand, and also potentially the first watch to have been made as part of this limited edition case-metal run. A time-only, classically styled example, the watch is an intriguing part of early Gauthier, as it combines traditional techniques with a hint of Gauthier's more asymmetrical design philosophies.

The Prestige HM line was the very first to emerge from Romain Gauthier's brand back in 2007. Heavily inspired by his traditional training and bearing a more classical appearance compared to his later pieces, this watch highlights many of the innovations and ideas that Gauthier would eventually explore further. Only 38 examples in this configuration were made, with this watch being particularly important to Gauthier's history, as it is numbered 1 - making it not only part of the first serially produced watches made for the brand, but also potentially being the first example made for the series, as a whole.

This time-only example might appear traditional, but it possesses several quirks that demonstrate Gauthier's personality and watchmaking philosophy. The dial of the piece is in a complementary champagne and rose gold shade, with concentric circles as the theme. Even within this early piece, we can see Gauthier's desire to disrupt traditional stylings, as the watch is slightly asymmetrical, with the time-telling information placed nearer the top of the dial, featuring a brushed centre, corresponding rose-gold hands, and Romain Gauthier's signature. The surrounding area is filled with a basket-weave guilloche pattern, enclosed by a brushed rose-gold minute track.

To keep the watch perfectly symmetrical, Gauthier avoided putting a crown in its traditional position at 3 o'clock, instead opting to place a wheel in the movement at the back of the watch, which protrudes just slightly, allowing the watch to be adjusted accordingly. This also has the interesting effect of making the movement and case blend together, emphasising their inextricable design, as instead of the case framing the movement, they are a single entity here.

The movement itself is in a complementary rose gold, and establishes the incredible finishing standards that we have seen within Gauthier's work. The design combines curving bridges and sharp angles to great effect, producing a dramatic and highly stylised layout. Numerous hand-applied finishing techniques are used throughout, such as frosting, snailing, graining, and polished bevels on the bridges and countersinks. The gears and ratchet wheels have circular spokes, while the screws have S-shaped heads, both a signature of Romain Gauthier's work. Cursive engraving also highlights the watch's birthplace, the Vallee de Joux, in addition to the number of jewels and number of the watch.

The watch is accompanied by its original box and is a display case of glass and steel that frames the watch as a museum piece. It also features an engraving that confirms that this watch is No. 1. A service from the brand can be provided upon request.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Romain Gauthier Prestige HM will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Romain Gauthier Prestige HM is in good overall condition. The case and lugs show light superficial marks throughout and only on the very surface of the material. The dial, hands, and movement show natural and honest signs of age, such as oxidation/blemishes. This watch hasn't been serviced since new, and whilst it keeps time, currently it is offered with a complimentary service with Romain Gauthier as part of the sale. The hallmarks and engravings on the caseback and buckle are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch is offered with a complimentary service by Romain Gauthier. It also comes with a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from A Collected Man.